ON HER CREATIVE PROCESS
Initially, my decision to (fuse together vintage fabrics with modern techniques) was driven by access and budget. I am a bit of a hoarder, collecting fabrics and lace from vintage markets, charity shops and so on, so when I started the brand – during a time when we couldn’t leave our homes and all the shops were closed – I began experimenting with the materials I had gathered over the years. I have always loved decoration and embellishment, but after working for an embroidery company, I understood just how labour-intensive and expensive traditional handmade techniques could be. This pushed me to think creatively about new methods or applications that would allow me to craft embellished pieces without requiring the extensive skill and time typically needed for fully embellished designs.
Finding this balance (between the creativity of my one-off and more accessible pieces) has been a constant challenge, something I’m always fine-tuning. Since my brand is heavily textiles-focused, it’s crucial for me to feature interesting textiles and surfaces throughout my collections. I enjoy bringing small, unique details from one-of-a-kind pieces into the mainline. For instance, I might create a fully embroidered dress and then incorporate that same embroidery on the collar of a shirt or the cuff for example. Even subtle touches, like a bit of hand embroidery or a whipstitch along the edge, help maintain that handcrafted element in the more simple pieces.
ON DESIGNING SUSTAINABLY
My commitment to sustainability and a conscious approach to crafting my collections has been developed and formed in more recent years. The pandemic gave me ample time to pause and reflect- as I contemplated the state of the world and the fashion industry’s impact on the environment and its resources, I felt a sense of unease. This feeling, combined with a renewed need to create, ultimately inspired me to launch this brand.
In recent collections, my work has largely been guided by what materials I can source. I spend a lot of time scouring the internet and experimenting with scrap and damaged textiles, deadstock, and end-of-line materials. I’m always drawn to texture and colour, favouring materials that aren’t too delicate, allowing for manipulation through various processes. Moving forward, I’m keen to incorporate more recycled fabrics into my mainline, so I’ve been actively researching and exploring this avenue.
For me, the most important aspect has been setting sustainable goals and practising patience and flexibility while working towards them. Initially, I assumed I could achieve 100 per cent sustainability right from the start, but I quickly realised that with my limited resources, it’s not that simple. However, these limitations have pushed me to be more creative in my approach and processes when it comes to crafting my one-of-a-kind pieces, finding innovative ways to make sustainability a core part of my brand. However I definitely don’t claim to be perfect and I am always working to improve my sustainable practices with my ready-to-wear line- it’s a work in progress for sure.
ON THE FUTURE OF GRACE WELLER
Every stage of my career has been important and pivotal; it’s hard to pinpoint a single defining moment. I’ve learned so much from each experience, and they have collectively guided me to where I am today. However, if I had to choose one particularly influential period, it would be my time working for Jato, an Italian embroidery company based in Bologna. For as long as I can remember, I’ve been fascinated by the Valentino couture shows and the techniques used in their textiles and embroidery. Suddenly, I found myself not only observing these techniques but also working on them firsthand. This experience was a privilege and an invaluable learning opportunity that has significantly shaped my journey and led me to where I am now.
The most exciting and enriching moment was going to India and visiting the embroidery factories and markets out there- such an eye opening, inspiring and wild experience and I can’t wait to go back and explore further. I think it will be an integral part to the brand when it comes to bridging the gap between the ready-to-wear and one-of-a-kind pieces.
(Going forward) I want to push my creative boundaries and really start experimenting with new and innovative textiles and techniques that are original and instantly recognisable as part of the Grace Weller brand.
Photography courtesy of Grace Weller.
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